Dino 246 GT

Dino 206 GT/246 GT

BUYER’S GUIDE

Dino 206 GT/246 GT Review

“Almost a Ferrari” according to the brochure but, in fact, a template for Maranello’s mid-engined cars to this day, and still one of its most beautiful…

What Is It?

The junior Ferrari named after Ferrari Junior, the 206 GT was originally sold under the Dino branding alongside Fiats of the same name, the collaboration brought about by the need to homologate a small V6 for Formula 2 racing.

For all the apparent caution about having the old man’s badge on the nose the 206 GT was, cylinder count aside, a true Ferrari from the start, with a racing engine at its heart and various brand ‘firsts’, including being the first mid-engined road car, the first with electronic ignition and more besides.

Even by Pininfarina’s standards the seductively curvy bodywork is arguably the sexiest seen on any Ferrari, the metal flowing like a satin sheet thrown over a three-quarter scale prototype racing car, the delicately curved front arches, buttressed rear bodywork and Kamm tail all celebrated in the current 296 GTB.

Whatever it lacks in ‘proper’ Ferrari firepower the Dino more than makes up for in sheer style and effervescence, and values have rocketed as a result.

Corrosive Areas

Chassis tub (246 GT and GTS)

Wheelarches

Rear panels

Checklist

  • Dino name came from Enzo Ferrari’s son, who was working on a vee-engine at the time of his premature death in 1956 and became associated with a sub-brand of small, lightweight prototypes with V6 engines
  • The Dino brand was also used by Fiat in its own series of cars to ensure the V6 could be produced in sufficient scale to meet homologation rules for Formula 2
  • Teased in a series of Pininfarina design studies and prototypes, a roadgoing Dino was eventually shown in 1967 – while the looks were clearly inspired by the race cars the engine was turned 90 degrees to a transverse arrangement with the gearbox mounted below and behind the crankcase
  • Dino 206 GT road car finally went into production in 1968 with a 2.0-litre engine and all-aluminium bodywork
  • After a nine-month production run of only 152 cars the 206 was replaced by the 2.4-litre 246 GT
  • This featured a bigger 2.4-litre, iron-blocked engine, steel bodywork (though doors, bootlid and other panels were aluminium on some cars) and a 60mm wheelbase stretch
  • Easiest visual ‘tell’ for a 246 GT compared to the 206 is flush-fitting fuel filler under a flap on the left buttress – the earlier car has an exposed cap instead
  • 246 GT production is typically divided into L, M and E series
  • L series cars all left-hand drive and identifiable by their centre lock wheels with knock-off hub caps – later cars used more conventional five-stud mounts for the Cromodora alloy wheels
  • Other differences are detail, with minor mechanical updates for the engine, gearbox and external trimmings
  • GTS ‘targa’ option added in 1972; later cars gained popular option of wider Campagnola wheels and Daytona-style seats, often referred to as ‘chairs and flares’ from the wider rear bodywork
  • High-revving V6 is carb-fuelled but the first Ferrari road car with electronic ignition – this can be troublesome, wiring likewise fragile and susceptible to throwing up issues
  • Cooling system can be problematic, so make sure the temperature holds steady once the car is warmed up
  • Chain-driven cams mean engine is fundamentally robust, but it’s still demanding of regular oil changes and proper upkeep – make sure there’s evidence of this in any prospective purchase
  • Gearshift can be stiff when cold, especially from first to second – if this persists or there are any graunches when warm this could point to worn synchros and an expensive rebuild
  • Steel frame and body on 246s can rust from the inside out, so insist on a thorough, expert inspection and documentation of any restoration – most cars will have had correctional work at some point so make sure it’s been done by a credible specialist and not bodged

How does it drive?

Assuming you can squeeze yourself in, the Dino is the original when it comes to mid-engined Ferraris, with an uncluttered footwell, sparse dash, functional materials and – of course – that gated five-speed manual sprouting from the floor. Imagine a Lotus Elise, just a lot more exotic and valuable…

Like any old-school Ferrari the fluids need to warm through before you can engage gear or shift to second without veins bulging on your forearm. Once it’s up to temperature, though, the race-car style dog-leg arrangement makes more sense, with second to third a single swipe and cross-gate shifts to fourth and fifth a click-clack away.

For a small and light car the controls will be surprisingly physical for a modern driver, but once underway the consensus is it lightens up to become a true delight. An MX-5 would leave it for dead these days but if ever there’s a car to prove performance is about quality not quantity the Dino is it, the V6 spinning freely and making full use of even its modest stable of horses and the pace perhaps more usable and appropriate to what you can enjoy on the road than any more modern mid-engined Ferrari.

 What’s good?

The very delicacy of the Dino’s tiny size and modest power output may have been a matter of concern at one stage, but these days appreciation of the stunning looks, the technical intrigue of the mechanical underpinnings and the usable performance are all highly prized among those motivated by more than just horsepower. Because this is a car at least as interesting historically as it is gorgeous.

With a kerbweight of around a tonne, the purity of response of a carb-fed racing engine, a slick synchromesh gearbox and undiluted feedback from all the controls the Dino is also as good to drive as it is to look at. And that’s saying something, given this is perhaps one of the best looking classics of any era.

What’s bad?

The days of Dinos being the unappreciated and affordable ‘starter Ferrari’ have long gone. So, having fallen into the league of collectable classics the usual caveats apply of making doubly sure of the history and condition of any cars you’re looking at, and following your head rather than your heart.

Practically speaking the Dino is very much on the teeny side as well, and a very snug fit for anyone of, shall we say, a modern physique. This may or may not be a problem for you but if you want a car for racking up miles there may be better choices.

There’s also no escaping the fact this is an Italian car of a certain vintage, and while mechanically relatively simple any work will come with the inevitable ‘Ferrari tax’ in terms of costs, especially if that involves sorting out any structural corrosion.

Which model to choose?

While the original 2.0-litre 206 GT is down on power compared with the later 2.4-litre 246 GT the significant weight advantage of its all-aluminium construction and marginally revvier nature of the engine arguably make up for it. This also makes it considerably more exotic, its rarity – most sources agree on there being just 152 built – sealing the deal as the one for the real purists to chase. With a premium to match.

On that basis there’s no shame seeking a relatively more numerous 246, the GTS with its removable roof panel a tempting wind in the hair option while the GTB has the purity of the coupe design on its side.

The centre-lock wheels of the earlier series cars look cool but beyond that the differences are really in the finer details, so really it comes down to condition, price and colour with the usual advice being to buy the best you can afford on the basis a cheap one will likely be a false economy.

Specifications

Engine

2.0-litre V6 petrol/2.4-litre V6, petrol

Power

180PS (132kW) @ 8,000rpm/195PS (143kW) @ 7,600rpm

Torque

187Nm (138lb ft) @ 6,500rpm/226Nm (166lb ft) @ 5,500rpm

Transmission

Five-speed manual, rear-wheel drive

Kerb weight

900kg (dry)/1,080kg (dry)

0-62mph

N/A

Top speed

146mph

Production dates

1968-1969 (206 GT)/1969-1974 (246 GT and GTS)

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Aston Martin DB2 front three quarter exterior

Aston Martin DB2 (and DB2/4)

BUYER’S GUIDE

Aston Martin DB2 (and DB2/4) review

With its powerful six-cylinder engine and beautiful aluminium body the DB2 set the template for the legendary DB cars that followed…

What Is It?

While the iconic DB5 perhaps represents peak post-war Aston Martin the opening chapter for this most celebrated family of sporting coupes started in 1949 with the original DB2.

Based on the frame of the previous 2-litre, the secret to the DB2’s success (and that of the cars that followed) was the switch to a powerful twin-cam straight-six, originally co-designed by none other than W.O. Bentley and acquired by David Brown as part of the purchase of Lagonda.

Raced at the 1949 Le Mans, Aston Martin’s signature combination of luxury and sporting pedigree was assured by the time the production car was unveiled in New York in 1950. With its coil-sprung suspension, power-assisted brakes and lightweight aluminium bodywork over a spaceframe chassis the DB2 was every inch the modern sporting coupe, and was developed into the larger and more practical DB2/4.

Corrosive Areas

Spaceframe chassis

Mounting points to aluminium bodywork

Front suspension

Checklist

  • Aluminium body obviously won’t rust, but the steel frame beneath can while electrolytic corrosion where the two meet will be expensive to fix – insist on evidence of any restoration work to spaceframe and check thoroughly
  • Interior trimmings and upholstery can be repaired by suitably skilled specialists but parts, fixtures and fittings may be difficult if not impossible to source
  • Independent front suspension requires regular lubrication and upkeep – if this hasn’t been done repairs can be very expensive
  • Gearboxes are generally tough and demand a level of physicality to operate, but beware any whines, clonks or other worrying noises
  • Matching numbers originality will matter in a car like this, so make sure you do your homework on any prospective purchase you are confident the history adds up
  • Most cars will have been through one or more restoration, so make sure this is properly documented and the work has been carried out by a respected specialist
  • The small number of cars means most will be known within the market, so if restoration work has been done you should be able to cross reference with the specialist who did it
  • Engines are generally understressed and tough, assuming they’ve been looked after properly and serviced as required
  • Head gaskets and liners require expert installation, so check who’s been working on the car and pay particular attention for any signs of failure
  • Vantage engine upgrade comprised different carbs, revised inlet cam and higher compression pistons for welcome extra power
  • If originality matters check history to see if the car was sold in Vantage trim, or if the upgrade was applied later in its life

How does it drive?

While it started out with a smaller and less powerful engine than the later DB models the DB2 was developed from the outset to be as competitive in racing and rallies as it was on the road, this need underpinning a definite sporting style to the driving experience. For the time the easy 100mph-plus performance, coil-sprung suspension (independent at the front), power brakes and part-synchro four-speed manual gearbox were all commendably modern and, approached with due deference to its vintage, a DB2 is a rewarding and suitably sporty car to drive.

Like any car of its age it benefits from smooth and measured inputs to the controls, all of which will have a level of physicality to them. The strong engine, great balance and predictable handling will all be a delight for any keen driver, and the fact it’s the original DB holds strong appeal.

 What’s good?

Looks and status are, of course, part of the deal with any Aston Martin and the DB2’s smooth lines certainly deliver on both. While superficially similar to the later Touring-bodied DB4s, ‘5s and ‘6s the DB2 is clearly a car of the ‘50s and not ‘60s, the ‘humpback’ body of the Sports Saloon creating an unmistakeable silhouette later refined on the more practical 2+2 DB2/4.

Convertible Drophead Coupes meanwhile have a timeless elegance, trading the hardtop’s sporting cred for a more gentrified touring ambience. Both have their fans. Representing as it does the first iteration of Aston Martin’s iconic DB series of cars and backed up by that fascinating origin story, true fans will appreciate its status and, with all the Bond-infused baggage heaped on the later and more recognised DB5, it might even be the ‘cooler’ choice among serious aficionados.

along the way.

What’s bad?

We’re in proper big league collectors’ classic territory here, the vintage and scarcity (just 411 DB2s were built, with 761 DB2/4s) ensure a level of exclusivity. The nature of the car also means it’s a vehicle demanding of specialist and expensive care to maintain that value, and a DB2 is never going to be a cheap car to buy, restore or maintain.

With the pool of available cars so small it’s likely that most will have been through at least one restoration by now, and as always the quality of the work and expertise of the people doing it will be crucial to its ongoing value. While there will never be any such thing as a cheap DB2 the cost of having one brought up to standard will likely make buying on price a false economy.

Which model to choose?

Sports Saloon or Drophead Coupe will be a choice based on personal taste but, for the sporting provenance, we’d err to the former, especially if you have any desire to compete in any of the many historic events the DB2 will be eligible for.

Early cars with the three-piece grille and ‘washboard’ wing vents have a rarity value given just 49 were built to this spec, and exclusivity will doubtless add value for originalists. Whisper it but the later grille perhaps looks ‘more Aston Martin’ if that’s what you’re going for.

Cars with the uprated ‘Vantage’ spec engines will be usefully quicker, the later DB2/4 much more practical thanks to its hatchback-style boot access and 2+2 seating. A year into production this got a more powerful 2.9-litre engine, which carried through into the MkII version but, as ever, you trade increased power against the additional weight of the more luxurious trimmings.

Specifications

Engine

2.6-litre six-cylinder petrol

Power

105PS (77kW) @ 5,000rpm

Torque

170Nm (125lb ft) @ 3,000rpm

Transmission

Four-speed manual, rear-wheel drive

Kerb weight

c. 1,200kg

0-62mph

c. 11 seconds

Top speed

100mph-plus

Production dates

1950-1953 (DB2), 1953-1957 (DB2/4)

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Porsche Boxster 987 front exterior

Porsche Boxster (987)

BUYER’S GUIDE

Porsche Boxster (987) review

Sharper looks, more power and stronger engines make the second-generation Boxster a modern-classic Porsche for switched-on buyers…

What Is It?

Inspired by Porsche’s 1948 356 ‘No. 1’ Roadster and the 1950s 550 and 718 racing cars, the original 986-generation Boxster launched in 1996 and was an instant hit for its combination of 911 engineering, mid-engined handling and relative affordability.

The 987 that replaced it in 2004 is the car we’re looking at here and, arguably, the sweet spot in the Boxster story, given it stayed true to the formula but updated it with more performance, improved driveability and some major reliability issues addressed. Purists will also appreciate it’s the last Boxster with more natural feeling hydraulically assisted steering, the 981 and four-cylinder 718s that followed it perhaps lacking that final per cent of connection.

Alongside new tech like PASM adjustable dampers and ceramic brakes – not to mention some very appealing limited editions – the 987 generation also saw the introduction of Porsche’s double-clutch PDK transmission, and with it an automatic option able to do justice to the car’s fabulous handling and performance.

Checklist

  • There are three main engine generations to consider: launch models featuring improved versions of the 2.7 and 3.2-litre motors from the previous 986 Boxster and Boxster S; these were updated in 2006 with the 3.2 going to 3.4 and the introduction of VarioCam Plus for a small increase in power in both; the bigger change came in the 2009 model year with the new 2.9 and 3.4-litre direct-injection engines and PDK gearbox
  • A five-speed manual gearbox featured on early Boxsters but most were sold with the optional six-speed that was standard on the S
  • Pre-PDK the automatic option was the more traditional Tiptronic S; given it adds quite a bit of weight and blunts the edge of the power delivery it’s probably the least appealing 987 configuration, but if you want a two-pedal car that relative lack of desirability could play in your favour in price terms
  • Bearing failure for the RMS (Rear Main Seal) and IMS (Intermediate Shaft) are well-documented worries on Porsches of this era; while potentially something to consider on early 987s in reality it’s much less of a worry given any post-2006 cars will have the updates introduced to cure the issues and later direct-injection cars aren’t affected
  • Also much discussed, bore score is less common than many would have you believe but if present can manifest as low oil, a rattle at tickover, smoke or excessive soot on the exhaust tips – if you have any doubts Porsche specialists will be able to perform an endoscope inspection of the cylinders for full peace of mind
  • The radiator and air conditioning condensers are in a vulnerable position in the lower front bumper; corrosion can appear behind leaf mulch and other debris if not cleared out regularly while stone chips can also cause leaks – check the air con works properly as it’s an expensive fix
  • Check roof drain holes aren’t blocked and there’s no dampness behind the seats or on the carpets – water build-up can result in expensive electrical issues
  • Broken springs aren’t unusual so check the car sits level and there are no bangs or rattles from the suspension while on the test drive
  • Bushing and suspension joints can also wear – a Boxster should drive with the precision you’d expect of a Porsche so sloppiness or clonks could hint at worn parts
  • Alignment is also important for handling and tyre wear – check the inside edges of the rubber if possible
  • Corrosion shouldn’t be an issue but high-mileage cars will likely have had front end resprays to repair stone chip damage, while any hint of rust on panels could suggest accident damage and a poor repair
  • Kerbed wheels aren’t just ugly and indicative of a hard life – if left unrepaired they can lead to corrosion and deeper damage

How does it drive?

As brilliantly as you would hope. While the 911’s inherent handling quirks are uniquely rewarding in the right hands the Boxster is a fundamentally better-balanced car, with all the expected Porsche traits like lovely steering feel, strong brakes and brilliantly harmonised controls.

All the engines share the same character as well, natural smoothness and that gorgeous flat-six howl key to the experience. In traditional naturally-aspirated style they need revs to perform their best, with a decisive shift around 4,000rpm beyond which they really take off and pull hard all the way to the redline. S models are faster and more flexible from low revs, and some consider standard Boxsters to be a little underpowered. It’s more down to taste, though, and others prefer the revviness of the smaller engines and invitation to work them a little harder for the same thrills.

Adjustable PASM suspension was a popular upgrade and offers a stiffer setting for track or really pressing on but any Boxster should handle sharply. The smaller wheels are less fashionable but better for ride quality.

 What’s good?

Given you’re getting 911 engineering at a much more affordable price the Boxster has always felt a bit of a steal, the lack of rear seats compensated for by dual luggage compartments and surprising practicality. So, you won’t have to pack light for that extended European road trip.

Excellent refinement means the boring motorway miles will fly by in comfort as well, the ability to drop the roof and let rip once you’re at the more interesting roads meaning it’s really all the sportscar you need. The 987 feels brilliantly engineered as well, with the high-quality vibe you’d hope for from a Porsche. As accommodating of less confident drivers as it is rewarding for experienced ones, the Boxster also has a huge bandwidth of ability that makes it just as viable as a daily as it is a weekend plaything.

All are good but by the time you get to post-2009 S models with 300PS-plus, 0-62mph in about five seconds and a top speed of 170mph you have to question just how much more performance you need to get your pulse racing.  

What’s bad?

While many of the potentially scary mechanical problems afflicting other Porsches of this era were addressed for the 987 you need to buy a Boxster with realistic expectations for upkeep. These are, after all, precision instruments that flourish with the proper care but can throw up issues if neglected. So, when buying scrutinise both condition and history with due care and attention, and if neither add up move on to the next one.

There are plenty to choose from, so you can afford to be fussy. Common issues to be aware of include faulty air conditioning due to blocked or damaged condensers (their position in the front bumper leaves them vulnerable), which is an expensive fix. Tyres and suspension need staying on top of if the car is to perform as it should, but not all owners will have bothered and rattly bushings and broken springs aren’t unusual.

Blocked hood drains can cause expensive electrical issues and clutch changes (beware noisy gearboxes or stiff shifting) are costly but do provide opportunity to check and replace the RMS and the IMS bearing if it’s a pre-2006 car where either could yet be an issue.

Which model to choose?

While there are no bad choices in the 987 Boxster range we’d probably avoid Tiptronic autos, on the basis they feel somewhat sluggish and the performance takes a big hit. Good news? If you want an automatic car the later PDK is excellent, with smooth, fast shifts and no apologies necessary for choosing a two-pedal Porsche.

Saying that, a manual would always be the first choice, given it really dials you into the car and is a delight to use. Over-long gearing is the only real issue here. While pre-2009 cars are great the later direct-injection models are faster, revvier and more robust. A base spec Boxster 2.9 manual would be lovely, a 3.4 S both faster and more flexible.

The ultimate? That has to be the rare-groove Boxster Spyder launched in 2010. Its ‘shower cap’ roof is a limitation but, stripped of 80kg, with power boosted to 320PS (235kW), a standard limited-slip diff and that chop top styling it’s a truly special thing and, arguably, one of the best street cars Porsche has built in living memory. 911 GT3s included. Don’t worry if you can’t stretch to one though – a well-specced S may be less exotic but is pretty much as fun to drive.

Specifications – 987 Boxster S gen two

Engine

3.4-litre six-cylinder, petrol

Power

310PS (228kW) @7,200rpm

Torque

360Nm (265lb ft) @4,750rpm

Transmission

Six-speed manual/seven-speed PDK dual-clutch, rear-wheel drive

Kerb weight

1,355kg DIN

0-62mph

5.3 seconds (PDK 5.2 seconds)

Top speed

170mph (PDK 169mph)

Production dates

2004-2011 (entire production run)

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Mini Cooper S

Mini Hatch (R50/R52/R53)

BUYER’S GUIDE

Mini Hatch (R50/R52/R53) review

The first of the ‘modern Minis’ has matured into an appealing contemporary classic in its own right…

What Is It?

Replacing an icon is never easy, as the Mini Metro’s valiant attempt to reinvent the Mini proved. While the latter soldiered on through the late ‘90s it was clear something had to be done and, amid the tumultuous, end-of-days calamity that was Rover’s dissolution, BMW took its vision for the brand and ran with it. Trading heavily on past glories in terms of the look and overall character, the new Mini was not back-to-basics transport like its predecessor, BMW instead trusting its instincts to create a trendy, sporty and expensively engineered hatchback for upwardly mobile buyers.

Quietly revolutionary in its own way, the first of the modern Minis brought this premium mindset to the small car sector in fine style. And under the retro styling was a thoroughly modern car, the investment in things like sophisticated multi-link rear suspension meaning it handled with real sophistication. Against the fussiness of the current one, this first-generation modern Mini looks better than ever, too.  

Corrosive Areas

Lower door edges

Rear subframes

Number plate recess on rear hatch

Checklist

  • All petrol models use versions of the same 1.6-litre ‘Tritec’ engine developed with Chrysler, the One D using a diesel engine supplied by Toyota
  • Oil leaks on the petrol engine aren’t unusual and may be down to seals for the crank position sensor, oil pump or even oil pan; given replacing any of these is a big job due to limited engine access many owners accept regular top-ups as a price worth paying
  • Plastic dipsticks on earlier cars can snap off inside the engine; metal replacements are a sensible precautionary solution if not already fitted
  • Some engine work requires major front-end disassembly and can cost a lot in labour; clutch changes are one example so consider it a win if there’s evidence of this being done recently
  • The 100,000-mile ‘supercharger service’ on the Cooper S is another expensive milestone, but the extent of the work means it’s also a chance to replace the auxiliary belt, water pump and other inaccessible parts as a precautionary measure – check the history to see if this has been done
  • The distinctive whine from the power steering pump is a characteristic but they can fail and it’s an expensive fix so check for excessive noise or inconsistent feel
  • The standard gearbox was a five-speed manual or a sluggish CVT for the automatic, while the Cooper S had a six-speed manual or more conventional six-speed automatic option
  • The facelift for the 2005 model year (introduced in 2004) didn’t change the looks dramatically but saw significant improvements under the skin, the less reliable Rover-supplied five-speed manual replaced with a sturdier Getrag one while changes to the Cooper S increased power
  • The switch from a two-spoke steering wheel to a three-spoke one is an easy ‘tell’ if you’re browsing adverts for 2004 cars and uncertain as to whether it’s an updated one or not
  • Updated cars also address some of the common issues with central locking solenoids and sluggish electric window regulators some earlier cars can suffer from, though at the age they’re now reaching these should be checked anyway
  • Stiff suspension and bumpy roads can chew through suspension components or, in some cases, even result in distortion to the strut towers and top mounts in the body – check for pulling to one side or misaligned bolts
  • Rust isn’t unknown, with lower door edges, rear subframes and bodywork around the petrol tank vulnerable

How does it drive?

While the styling paid respectful homage to the original Mini it also drove like one, too. Looks and the fundamental mechanical layout were about the only things it really had in common, mind, the R50 Mini (convertible versions are known as R52s, the Cooper S the R53) using a much more modern chassis with an expensive multi-link rear axle for more sophisticated handling than most hot-hatch rivals with their simple twist-beams.

Stiff suspension, weighty but precise steering and well-balanced controls encourage you to push the Mini hard, just as the original did all those years ago. And it responds in kind, with a modern interpretation of the go-kart handling mantra the brand lives by to this day. This character is there across the board, too, meaning even the entry-level One is fun to drive while the Cooper and Cooper S deliver increasingly meaningful performance.  

 What’s good?

The modern Mini wasn’t just good to drive – it also felt genuinely premium, and a very different proposition from other hatchbacks in the market. This wasn’t a basic model dressed up with a few nice bits, after all, but a properly posh car. Just smaller. Those looks have aged really well, too, the clean design and exaggerated Mini stance arguably the most convincing of all three modern Mini generations. It carries over to the interior as well, with the classic central speedo reinvented for the modern age and a row of properly tactile rocker switches beneath it.

Original buyers had to dig deeper into their pockets than perhaps they might have first expected but, equipped with the necessary upgrade packs, the Mini felt properly luxurious as well. This meant it was just as good for long, motorway drives as it was around town or being razzed along the lanes – something you’d never have claimed of the original.

What’s bad?

Style, and that handling, came at the price of practicality, and the modern Mini is pretty tight inside for any more than two occupants. If you need a bit more space and usability there are better hot hatch options available, for sure. And while the sporty suspension set-up was a hit, and suited the character of the car, its combination with stiff-walled run-flat tyres meant ride quality could be pretty brutal on rougher roads and put quite a bit of stress through the suspension components and shell.

As the car has aged reliability quirks and some expensive servicing intervals (especially on the Cooper S) mean running a modern Mini can get quite expensive as well, the car’s sophistication inevitably making it a pricier car to run than its simpler rivals.

Which model to choose?

Given they all drive well it’s a question of what kind of journeys you’ll be doing and the kind of character you’re after. Diesel may not be fashionable these days but the One D has comparable performance to the regular One but also excellent long-distance refinement and economy. Pared back to its fundamentals the One with its 90PS (66kW) engine demonstrates just how good the basic car is and, given it’s not actually that much slower than the regular Cooper, has an understated appeal. Just make sure the original buyer paid for the desirable Salt and Pepper packs to equip it with the creature comforts you’d expect.

With its supercharger whine, 170PS (125kW) output and more up-for-it character we can’t help but be seduced by the Cooper S, though. This is a proper hot-hatch and a potent little thing, the more so if you get a post-2004 Chilli Pack one with the optional limited-slip differential or can find one with the John Cooper Works package and significantly upgraded performance.

Specifications – Mini Cooper S (R53, 2005 model year)

Engine

1.6-litre four-cylinder petrol, supercharged

Power

170PS (125kW) @ 6,000rpm

Torque

220Nm (162lb ft) @ 4,000rpm

Transmission

Six-speed manual/six-speed auto, front-wheel drive

Kerb weight

1,215kg

0-62mph

7.2 seconds

Top speed

138mph

Production dates

2001-2006 (entire production)

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MGA buyer's guide

MGA

BUYER’S GUIDE

MGA review

One of the prettiest of all the ‘60s British sportscars, the MGA is a stone-cold classic and still fun to drive to this day…

What Is It?

Though it still ran on a separate chassis, the MGA was a huge step forward for MG when it launched in 1955. The enclosed bodywork inspired by an aerodynamically styled TD race car that ran at Le Mans four years earlier. By broadening the chassis rails and dropping the floor beneath them the MGA was a much more resolved design, though, the sweeping curves of the low-slung body reminiscent of the contemporary Austin Healeys but with a lightness of touch that still looks good.

The pushrod B-Series engine may have been relatively old tech but with aluminium panels, rack and pinion steering and a stiff frame the MGA felt more modern than many contemporaries, and is still fun to drive on modern roads. A mere fraction of the 100,000-plus total production were actually sold on home soil, the MGA a key player in the late ‘50s and early ‘60s British sportscar export boom. Its MGB successor picked up where the A left off, but the earlier car is arguably still the more attractive.  

Corrosive Areas

Chassis rails and sills

A- and B-pillars

Front wings

Checklist

  • The MGA launched as a bare-bones roadster, the steel-roofed Coupe that followed in 1956 adding luxuries like wind-down side windows and a more plushily trimmed interior
  • Original 1.5-litre B-Series pushrod engine replaced by a 1,588cc 1600 version in 1959, this in turn succeeded by the 1961 1600 MkII with a 1,622cc engine, all fuelled by twin SU carburettors
  • Competition inspired Twin Cam version based on the 1,588cc block arrived in 1958 and was significantly faster and more powerful, though temperamental and prone to failures; later versions with lower compression and reduced power were relatively more reliable
  • MGA 1500 had drum brakes all round, which are adequate for the performance if nothing more; 1600 introduced disc brakes up front while Twin Cams and De-Luxe versions of the 1600 feature disc brakes all round with centre-lock wheels
  • Rear lights are the easiest tell-tale of what version MGA you’re looking at, with 1500s using a single combined unit on the trailing edge of the rear wing and 1600s introducing a separate indicator above this; 1600 MkIIs use a horizontally mounted Mini light cluster moved inboard and under the boot shut line and a different grille with more upright vertical strakes
  • Regular B-Series engines are generally tough and proven, and long-lasting with proper care; make the usual checks for coolant in the oil and signs of overheating; a small dribble of oil from the back of the engine is normal but anything more significant is a concern
  • Engine transplants are not unusual, and larger and more powerful MGB motors are a straightforward swap
  • While Twin Cams can be made more reliable they still require considerably more upkeep and specialist maintenance; rebuilds when things do go wrong can be very costly
  • Four-speed gearbox generally tough, though synchro on second gear can graunch – rebuilds possible but retrofit five-speed transmissions from Ford Sierras or Mazda MX-5s are also a popular upgrade and improve motorway running
  • Front suspension requires regular lubrication to prevent premature wear to components
  • Rack and pinion steering should be sharp and precise – any knocking or looseness is likely down to worn ball joints or other suspension parts
  • MGA is built on a steel chassis with a steel shell, though door skins, bonnet and boot lid are aluminium and the floor panel is wood
  • Rust is an issue inside and outside the structure, with the sills especially vulnerable along with the chassis rails running inboard of them; front wings also go inside and out, along seams and around headlights; also check rear wings, rear chassis crossmember and boot floor
  • Panel gaps are a good indication of chassis alignment and the quality of any previous restoration work; front bumper should be flush within its recess in the valance, door gaps should be consistent and everything should line up
  • Coupes generally considered less valuable than roadsters, but are more difficult and expensive to restore

How does it drive?

Sportscar buyers in the late ‘50s and early ‘60s were spoiled for choice when it came to cute-looking and relatively affordable British-built roadsters, the MGA perhaps sharper to drive than the contemporary alternatives from Triumph and Austin Healey by virtue of its body stiffness and rack and pinion steering. That stands it in good stead for modern-day drivers as well, given it feels nimbler and more precise than many of its era.

The regular B-series engine may not have been anything fancy but is proven and gutsy in its power delivery, and there’s plenty of knowledge for further tuning or even the option to fit a more powerful engine from an MGB if you crave extra performance. With this, the later front disc brake set-up and perhaps even a retrofit five-speed gearbox from a Ford Sierra or Mazda MX-5 you have perhaps the perfect combination of late-‘50s looks with more modern driving manners.  

 What’s good?

The looks are an obvious draw for the MGA, the simple, unadorned lines and classic proportions never bettered in the day. If not blisteringly fast the MGA is quick enough to entertain, and perfectly encapsulates the fun of driving with the roof down along a classic British B-road. In earlier versions with the screens removed you’ll be getting plenty of that wind in the hair ambience as well, while later ones feel a little more luxurious all things relative thanks to luxuries like wind-up side windows.

Meanwhile the appealing simplicity of the design is matched with a corresponding lack of fuss in the mechanical parts, more exotic Twin Cam aside. Assuming you’ve got one with sound bodywork the rest of the upkeep should be well within the wit of a keen amateur mechanic, while the interchangeability of parts and vast knowledge base among enthusiasts and specialists means plenty of help is available if you get stuck along the way.

What’s bad?

Like any car of its era the MGA is vulnerable to corrosion, and if it takes hold sorting it properly can be a complicated, time consuming and ultimately expensive job. This is further complicated by issues like electrolytic corrosion where aluminium panels meet steel structure, the potential for wooden floors to rot out and the added complications of a separate chassis to worry about.

While the vast majority of MGAs were sold overseas, and many lived in drier climates where corrosion will have been less of a concern, they’re all of an age now where it needs to be kept on top of, and most will have been through at least one restoration over the years. The quality of that work will be key to whether you end up with a dream come true or living nightmare.

If provenance matters the ease of engine swaps, mechanical upgrades and conversion from left- to right-hand drive also makes original cars rare beasts indeed. Convertible roofs are meanwhile famously basic and fiddly, so if you want to drive in all weathers or store it outside you may be better off with a coupe. They’re getting expensive as well, while Twin Cams can prove ruinous to make good if someone has bodged the engine rebuild.

Which model to choose?

The more exotic nature of the Twin Cam and its feistier performance have obvious appeal for both the mechanically curious and those wanting the most exciting MGA driving experience. But this comes at a significant cost in terms of purchase price and ongoing care, so is probably best reserved for the more committed MG fan. The more innocent delights of the regular pushrod-engined cars are no less appealing. A sunny day on your favourite twisty road with the MGA’s handling and feelgood looks will be equally enjoyable.

In terms of which one to get the answer will, inevitably, be ‘the best one you can find and afford’ with structural integrity probably the most important consideration. Beyond that the early 1500s have a purity of style and purpose that feels very appealing, though they can be very basic. Going the other way the later 1600 MkIIs have a bit more power and more relaxed nature thanks in part to their extra torque and longer gearing. We’d probably split the difference and go for one of the earlier 1600s with the old style rear lights but the extra flexibility of the slightly bigger engine.

Specifications – MG MGA 1600

Engine

1.6-litre four-cylinder petrol

Power

79PS (58kW) @ 5,500rpm

Torque

118Nm (87lb ft) @ 3,800rpm

Transmission

Four-speed manual, rear-wheel drive

Kerb weight

927kg

0-62mph

c. 14.2 seconds

Top speed

c. 101mph

Production dates

1955-1962 (total production run for all models)

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Ford Capri

Ford Capri

BUYER’S GUIDE

Ford Capri review

Why Ford’s “The car you always promised yourself” advertising line for the Capri is as true now as it ever was…

What Is It?

Having perfected the formula for the affordable, blue-collar performance coupe with the all-American Mustang, Ford repeated the trick for European buyers with the Capri. Launched in 1969, it followed the same formula of glamorous styling underpinned by engines and other mechanical bits repurposed from the wider Ford family to keep costs down.

With nearly two million sales over almost two decades it was an absolute hit, capturing the imagination of aspiring owners through iconic on-screen appearances and success on the race track, where its giant-killing performances against much more glamorous machinery suited its raffish image down to the ground.

Over three generations the Capri stayed true to the same basic format, grunty V6 engines doing the business for the top models but supported by a range of more affordable four-cylinder variants for those keen to share the fun on a more real-world budget.

Corrosive Areas

A-pillars, front scuttle and bulkhead

Front suspension turrets

Sills

Checklist

  • Mk1 Capris are obvious for their raised trim line along the side and the two fake air intakes ahead of the rear wheel; post 1971 facelift cars can be identified by their bigger rear lights
  • Homologation RS2600 and RS3100 are rare and highly collectable; plenty of standard cars were dressed up with the same quad-headlight look both in period and subsequently and can offer similar thrills for a lot less money if you’re not so fussed about matching numbers originality
  • Vinyl roofs, louvred rear windows, rear spoilers and more were all among the popular trim upgrades available in the many and various Capri special editions
  • Launched in 1974, the Mk2 loses the fake rear vents and gains a hatchback tailgate; engines range from 1.3 Crossflows to 1.6 and 2.0 Pintos, along with various sizes of V6 engine
  • The Capri used both ‘Essex’ and ‘Cologne’ vee engines in various configurations, the former more commonly powering the many and various 3.0-litre V6 variants over all three generations before being phased out in 1982 in favour of the fuel-injected 2.8-litre Cologne
  • Most Capris are four-speed manuals, though a three-speed automatic was popular with buyers of the more luxury focused Ghia models and some later 2.8s got five-speed transmissions
  • Ford offered two stages of ‘X-Pack’ packages for 3.0-litre versions of the Mk2 and Mk3, some as fully finished cars or as retrofit options; parts included uprated suspension, widebody arch extensions, Bilstein dampers and, in top Series X trim, a triple-carb conversion for more power
  • Original X-Pack cars will be valuable; again standard ones may have been retrospectively modified and are more accessible if you want the look for less money
  • Four-cylinder engines are standard Ford units and generally tough and dependable, though look for the usual signs of overheating, smoke, emulsified oil and obvious rattles
  • Both V6s are generally tough and dependable, though can suffer from warped cylinder heads and blown gaskets; plastic timing gears can fail and are often upgraded with sturdier steel replacements, which are noisier but tougher
  • Interior trim can be very difficult to get hold of so even a rough car with well-preserved cabin could have value
  • Rust can occur anywhere but is most critical in structural areas like suspension turrets, A-pillars, front bulkhead, sills, rear suspension mounts and boot floor

How does it drive?

Exactly as you’d expect, which is to say entirely in keeping with its down-to-earth, no-nonsense image. Ford’s knack for making sure even its cheaper models handle well was further improved for the Capri, the low-slung driving position and long bonnet making it feel sporty before you even turn a wheel.

Independent McPherson strut suspension up front and a leaf-sprung live axle out the back are nothing fancy but the sharp steering, precise gear shift and natural balance are all there to be enjoyed. Ford developed all manner of go-faster upgrades for suspension, brakes and powertrain for the faster models to make sense of the extra power of the V6 models.

With upwards of 140PS (103kW) depending on the model, these are obviously the ones people go for today, the fruity growl of the engine and power to get the rear end swinging all add to the fun. The smaller 1.3 and 1.6-litre engines are perhaps a little weedy to make serious progress but 2.0-litre models can entertain if a V6 is out of reach.

 What’s good?

Iconic looks, inherent mechanical simplicity, fun driving manners and space in the back to seat a couple of extra passengers make a Capri an excellent weekend classic to enjoy with all the family. By the time you get to the V6 models you’ve got enough performance to keep pace with more modern cars as well, while the enduring popularity means a wide community of fellow owners for sharing knowledge and a guarantee of strong residual values for a well-maintained example.

While navigating the many and various generations, special editions and model year updates can appear intimidating, that does mean you get a huge range of cars and styles to choose from, whether you crave-vinyl roofed ‘70s nostalgia, pared-back motorsport manners with the RS models or prefer the unadorned simplicity of the standard models.

Mechanically Capris are pretty simple and tough as well, given the proven Ford engines and other components. As such running one needn’t break the bank, or be beyond the wit of a driveway maintenance with a few basic tools and a bit of DIY nous.

What’s bad?

It will come as little surprise to hear that rust is going to be your main consideration when looking at a Capri to buy. This can appear anywhere on the body and will be obvious enough but, as ever, it’s what’s going on under the skin that can really cause issues, and all three generations are vulnerable to serious structural rot.

Common areas to look at include the front suspension turrets in the inner wings, the front scuttle and A-pillars (and bulkhead beneath them) along with the inevitable sills and floorpan. Rear suspension mounts can also go, likewise fuel tanks and boot floors.

While tatty bodywork can be repaired, perhaps of greater concern is the lack of interior trim parts, meaning a rough car with a good interior may yet be worth saving for that reason alone. Covetable models like RS variants, 3.0 S and others are also collectable but given the ease of engine swaps and other upgrades you need to perform due diligence to ensure it’s original and not a conversion if you’re paying the premium.

Which model to choose?

Launched in 1969, the Mk1 has the daintiest looks with the small, Escort donated rear lights and single headlights while a 1971 facelift saw bigger lenses all round and a revised engine line-up. Regular V6s are appealing, the V4s have curiosity value and the RS2600 and 3100 are proper collectable rarities.

The 1974 Mk2 stripped off some of the chintzier styling elements like the fake rear vents and the combination of the cleaned-up styling and hatchback rear tailgate are welcome modernising touches but the post-1978 Mk3 is perhaps the best looking thanks to the more aggressive quad-headlight front end and sharper detailing.

Of these the 2.8 Injection is probably the most coveted, especially in Special trim with the five-speed gearbox, Recaro seats and standard limited-slip differential. With around 160PS (118kW) these have enough grunt to make sense of the junior muscle car looks and will always put a smile on your face. This all comes at a price, though, and if we were on a budget a 2.0-litre would just about cut it.

Specifications – Ford Capri 2.8 Injection Special

Engine

2,792cc V6 petrol

Power

160PS (118kW) @ 5,700rpm

Torque

221Nm (163lb ft) @ 4,300rpm

Transmission

Five-speed manual, rear-wheel drive

Kerb weight

1,170kg

0-62mph

8.3 seconds

Top speed

131mph

Production dates

1981-1986 (1969-1986 for full production)

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Jaguar E-type Series II

Jaguar E-type (Series 2)

BUYER’S GUIDE

Jaguar E-type (Series II) review

With the Series 1 grabbing the glory could the Series 2 be a more accessible way of living the E-type dream..?

What Is It?

The original Series 1 Jaguar E-type stunned the automotive world when it arrived in 1961, and rightly became one of the decade’s defining sportscars. An updated 4.2-litre engine, easier all-synchro gearbox and introduction of the more spacious 2+2 all helped improve its offering as the years went on but, by 1968, looming changes to safety rules in the vital US export market meant Jaguar needed to invest in some more significant updates.

Previewed by the so-called Series 1½ changes in 1967, the full Series 2 went on sale in 1968 with various new features like full, wraparound bumpers, revised headlights stripped of their signature aerodynamic fairings and larger, repositioned rear lights.

Good news? While purists will always prefer the Series 1, and pay a premium for them, it’s still essentially the same car underneath and drives just as nicely, meaning a Series 2 could potentially make E-type ownership feel just that bit more attainable.

Corrosive Areas

Bonnet seams

Front bulkhead, sills and floorpan

Rear arches

Checklist

  • The most obvious Series 2 modifications include the repositioned headlights and removal of the clear fairings that covered them on earlier cars, and replacement of interior toggle switches with more conventional rockers; these were introduced on late Series 1 cars, meaning these are commonly referred to as Series 1½ models
  • Full Series 2 cars arrived in 1968 with further modifications, including a much larger ‘mouth’ on the bonnet to accommodate optional air conditioning, bigger sidelight/indicator units now mounted under the new full-width bumper and a similar arrangement at the rear with larger tail lights
  • Series 2 also added the option of steel wheels, power steering and air conditioning to boost appeal in the US market, where the car was sold as the XK-E
  • American-spec XK-Es also had a less powerful, emissions-compliant engine, with two Stromberg carburettors in place of the regular triple-SU set-up
  • The XK engine is well-proven and long-lasting with correct maintenance; check for the usual signs of head gasket failure like emulsified oil on the inside of the filler cap or contaminated coolant, rattling timing chains and persistent smoke or hesitancy once warmed through
  • Consistent oil pressure is a good sign, a rising temperature or fan not starting once warm a bad one
  • Worn diaphragms in the triple SU carburettors can result in lumpiness and requires expert help; retrofitted fuel injection can improve driveability
  • Check for smooth clutch engagement and bite – replacement is a big job requiring engine removal so can be costly
  • Inboard rear brakes can get contaminated by oil from the differential – servicing them is a big job so make sure the car pulls up cleanly
  • Structural corrosion is an ever-present concern, especially in floorpans, sills, rear arches and engine cradles – most cars will have had some degree of restoration by now but make sure this has been done properly and documented by a known specialist
  • Jaguar supports the E-type with parts (up to and including replacement engine blocks) and archive information like verification of the original build date, colour and options

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Images courtesy of Bonhams|Cars

How does it drive?

As the E-type matured so did its buyers, and the rawness and uncompromising sportiness of the early cars was steadily refined into a more luxurious package with more creature comforts. Thanks to its technological head start the E-type was still competitive by the time the Series 2 arrived, given the monocoque construction, all-independent suspension, disc brakes and sharp rack and pinion steering. That makes it a very driveable car on present-day roads, the trademark Jaguar ride quality combined with sharp steering and all scored by the glorious six-cylinder bark of the XK engine.

True, the Series 2 piled on a few pounds but the 4.2-litre version is more muscular and flexible than the 3.8 of early Series 1s and performance is plenty strong and charismatic enough. American market cars – sold as XK-Es – are down on power thanks to the emissions-compliant twin-carb arrangement while power steering (where fitted) on these cars may dull the experience a bit. But restoring power and driveability will be well within the scope of the many specialists who know the E-type inside out.  

 What’s good?

While the familiar Open Two-Seater and Fixed Head Coupe formats carried over with the Series 2 modifications, the 2+2 received some more significant change. The windscreen took on a sleeker rake to make it look less awkward than the original. It may be the least fashionable E-type configuration but if the extra practicality of a 2+2 appeals then a Series 2 is therefore a more appealing option, all things relative.

The purists may mutter into their beards about the ‘uglier’ bumpers and addition of emasculating options like power steering and air conditioning to make the E-type more appealing to American buyers but, as a car to enjoy rather than stash away as an investment, the Series 2’s more civilised features could make it easier to enjoy on a summer’s day.

More macho E-type fans may consider mastery of the earlier cars’ ‘Moss’ gearbox a badge of honour but, in truth, if you’re out for a Sunday cruise the slightly more easy-going nature of a Series 2 is probably going to be nicer. And the fact it’s less collectable means you can enjoy it without stressing too much about a few miles on the clock denting its ongoing value.  

What’s bad?

As a relatively overlooked chapter of the E-type story, Series 2 cars may have had less attention lavished on them over the years, the relative lack of value meaning greater risk they’ve survived on make do and mend rather than full restorations. This could be bad news because the same issues of expensive bodywork repairs can lurk within, and they’ll cost just as much to fix as they would on a more valuable Series 1 but without return on investment.

As with any classic car purchase it’s about making a call on whether apparent savings on a cheaper purchase price stack up in the long-run when you factor in restoration or upkeep, the general rule being this rarely works out in your favour.

It’s also worth considering a significant proportion of Series 2 production went overseas, and while US XK-Es from ‘dry’ states may appeal in terms of relative lack of corrosion they will obviously be left-hand drive and likely running significantly less powerful twin-carb engines.

Which model to choose?

Spared the hype of Series 1 snobbery and the endless debates about the relative values of flat-floor cars, synchro gearboxes versus Moss transmissions and the decision between revvy 3.8 or torquey 4.2 the choices for Series 2 cars are a lot simpler, and basically come down to which bodystyle you want.

As already mentioned, the 2+2 looks a bit sleeker so may enter the equation but most people will be chasing a roadster or regular coupe, the latter generally considered better looking and better to drive. Imported cars may be cheaper to buy and perhaps more plentiful but you’ll end up driving from the ‘wrong’ side while some of the chintzier spec options may not to be European tastes.

Power steering and automatic gearboxes where fitted aren’t really conducive to a proper E-type experience, either. Narrowing it down that leaves a right-hand drive, triple-carburettor manual in the bodystyle of your choosing and the best condition you can afford.  

Specifications – Jaguar E-type Series 2 4.2 Fixed Head Coupe

Engine

4.2-litre six-cylinder, petrol

Power

265PS (195kW) @ 5,400rpm

Torque

384Nm (283 lb ft) @ 4,000rpm

Transmission

Four-speed manual, rear-wheel drive

Kerb weight

c. 1,265kg (dry)

0-62mph

c. 7.3 sec (varies according rear axle ratio)

Top speed

c. 150mph (varies according rear axle ratio)

Production dates

1968-1971

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Rover SD1

BUYER’S GUIDE

Rover SD1 Review

Equally adept as an executive express or saloon car champion, the Rover SD1 still makes good on its sleek and sporty looks…

What Is It?

Depending on who you speak to the Rover SD1 is either a pinnacle of retro British cool and a canny blend of sleek styling and V8 muscle. Or one of the grand follies of the ‘70s domestic car industry and, given its astronomical development costs, sometimes woeful build quality and relatively modest sales, one of the architects of its downfall. Possibly both, indeed.

Either way, the SD1 – an abbreviation of the internal Specialist Division 1 designation under which it was developed – has come to symbolise the ‘80s era in which it really made its name. Against its contemporary exec saloon rivals it still stands out for its Ferrari Daytona inspired, five-door fastback styling and performance credentials sealed on both the racetrack and the nation’s motorways, where in classic ‘jam sandwich’ police livery it became an iconic sight on British roads. As a modern classic its stature is growing, too.

Corrosive Areas

Inner and outer wings

Front and rear valances

Door lower edges

Checklist

  • Launched in 1976 as the V8-powered 3500, Rover SD1 production is neatly divided into Mark 1 and Mark 2 phases, with the latter coming in 1982
  • Mark 1s can be identified by their recessed headlights, chrome bumpers (on most models) and smaller instrument binnacle
  • Mark 2s feature flush-fitting lights, wraparound bumpers, a front chin spoiler, a broader engine range and a bigger instrument binnacle stretching across the shelf-like dash to the centre of the car
  • The classic 3.5-litre Rover V8 in its various forms is the engine best associated with the SD1, though the arrival of 2300 and 2600 six-cylinders in 1977 added more choice, a 2.0-litre four-cylinder petrol, a 2.4-litre diesel and uprated Vitesse V8 coming with the 1982 facelift
  • At the time Mark 1s were being built poor industrial relations and a general lack of quality control can make them more challenging to restore now, given increased vulnerability to corrosion and the cheaper interior fittings
  • Rust remains an issue on all versions, though, and any potential purchase should be checked thoroughly if there’s no documented evidence of a proper restoration
  • Key areas to check include the bonnet and bootlid, front and rear valances, inner and outer wheelarches, front scuttle and windscreen surround, door bottoms, front strut towers, rear trailing arm mounts and – if fitted – the sunroof surround and drainage channels
  • Four- and six-cylinder engines are considered generally tough, though the six-cylinder can suffer from blocked oil feed to the camshaft that can ultimately lead to expensive failure – check for unusual rattles or other noises and make sure you factor a belt change into your equations for the first service
  • Proven V8 engine is well understood and can last well with proper care and regular oil changes; check for signs of overheating; electronic fuel injection can throw up issues
  • Manual gearboxes are generally tough but check for any rumbles or graunches; Borg Warner automatics can be fragile so if fitted make sure it shifts smoothly

How does it drive?

With its McPherson strut front suspension and live rear axle the SD1 is mechanically less exotic than the sleek lines would suggest, though in typical style the Rover engineers knew how to get the best out of what they had and the handling was always considered one of the car’s selling points. This was validated by success in touring car racing, especially once in the hands of TWR, and the big Rovers were regular front runners in domestic and European championships, not to mention crowd pleasers in Goodwood’s Gordon Spice Trophy.

Launched in 1982, the Vitesse model really proved the SD1’s credentials, the uprated engine delivering around 190PS (140kW) and putting it to the road through uprated suspension, a limited-slip differential and matched with more powerful, police-specification brakes and lovely cross-spoke style alloy wheels. The driving style is suitably beefy, with a compelling blend of luxurious appointments, predictable handling and sufficient performance to keep tabs with modern hot hatches.

 What’s good?

Looks that may for a time have been considered a bit chintzy have matured nicely, and the SD1’s distinctive fastback lines remain a pleasingly distinctive proposition with plenty of retro charm. It’s a big car with plenty of room for passengers, so a sociable classic to enjoy with family and friends alike.

Mechanically it’s also relatively simple and uses proven, well-understood engines that should be within the capabilities of a competent DIY mechanic to keep sweet. Performance is also pretty strong for a car of this vintage and a well-sorted and presented example will always be in demand, so remains a safe place to have your money.

What’s bad?

Famously poor build quality, especially for the earlier versions, means finding a good one will be even more challenging than it would be for other cars of the era. Paint, sealing and general fit and finish were all below par for a supposed luxury model but you’d have to hope that by now natural selection will have weeded out the rotters.

Interiors for Mark 1 cars were also pretty cheaply made, with poor quality materials and durability. Spares can be hard to find, so a car of either generation with a good interior is a solid basis for a restoration. Rust will always be an issue with a car of this vintage as well, so check every inch inside and out. Damp carpets are a warning sign of what may lie beneath but really you should be looking and feeling everywhere for signs of rot.

Which model to choose?

The V8 models have obvious appeal for their combination of smoothness, performance and obvious charisma, power steadily increasing up to the Vitesse models and, ultimately, the sought-after ‘twin plenum’ homologation cars built late into the SD1’s life. With just 500 reportedly made to qualify the updated car for racing these are now real rarities, and command accordingly chunky prices.

Going the other way, the six-cylinder cars shouldn’t be overlooked. The 2600 in particular is not far off the regular 3500 V8 in terms of performance and potentially a good bit cheaper to buy.

Given the SD1’s sporty looks and reputation it’s hard to overlook the Vitesse, though. The chunkier styling and extra performance all add to the experience if you can stretch to it, while the more luxurious Vanden Plas EFi derived from it is also much prized and rarer still.

Specifications – Rover SD1 Vitesse

Engine

3.5-litre V8, petrol

Power

192PS (142kW) @ 5,250rpm

Torque

285Nm (210lb ft) @ 4,000rpm

Transmission

Five-speed manual/three-speed automatic, rear-wheel drive

Kerb weight

1,500kg

0-62mph

7.3 seconds

Top speed

131mph

Production dates

1982-1987 (total production 1976-1987)

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Porsche 911 G

BUYER’S GUIDE

Porsche 911 (G-Series) Review

The ‘impact’ bumper-era 911 may not have the romance of the ‘60s cars but still offers a cracking Porsche experience…

What Is It?

In its more than half century of existence the Porsche 911 has been in a constant state of evolution, ranging from the detail to the drastic. The arrival of the impact bumper G-Series in 1974 is arguably one of the more significant generational shifts, and though it too went through many iterations it lasted in fundamentally the same basic form until 1989.

Purists will point out the G-Series was just the first and, officially, the letter changed with each model year evolution but, for most people, this has become the catch-all designation by which all impact bumper cars are now known. For many years overlooked in comparison with the prettier ‘60s cars, appreciation of impact bumper 911s has grown, and with it values.

Sadly these are no longer the bargain they once were, though all things relative they remain a relatively accessible route into classic 911 ownership and feel considerably more modern and easier to live with than the earlier cars. While the G-Series provided the foundations for the legendary Turbo, spawned Targa and Convertible variants and limited-edition specials like the flat nose and Speedster the classic coupe in its Carrera, SC and later 3.2 are our main focus here.

Corrosive Areas

Front luggage compartment floor

Sills and inner arches, especially on ‘kidney bowl’ reinforcement panels

Sunroof drain holes and roof pillars

Checklist

  • Early cars used 2.7-litre engines as a carry-over, a naturally-aspirated version of the Turbo’s 3.0-litre motor arriving on the Carrera for the 1976 model year
  • From the 1978 model year the 3.0-litre SC engine became standard fit, the aluminium crankcase considered sturdier though power was down due to emissions regulations
  • The 3.2 introduced for the 1984 model year is another generation on and less likely to suffer obvious oil leaks
  • Early cars may have a four-speed gearbox but the five-speed ‘915’ gearbox was an option many buyers took up; the shift is less positive than the later G50 and requires an experienced hand to operate smoothly but a well set-up one should be satisfying to use; crunches or seriously baulky shifts may indicate a rebuild is necessary
  • Not sure if the 3.2 you’re looking has a 915 or G50 gearbox? The easy tell is the position of the reverse indent, which is up and to the left of first on the G50 and down and back from fifth on a 915
  • Engines should start first turn, idle smoothly, pick up keenly and show a steady oil pressure with revs once warm; smoke or hesitancy are warning signs of issues and, once removed for a rebuild, work can quickly escalate in complexity and cost depending on what is found
  • Timing chain tensioners on earlier engines can fail; more durable hydraulic ones from later 3.2 engines are a common upgrade
  • Rusty heat exchangers on the exhaust system are an expensive fix
  • Bodywork corrosion is the biggest worry on an old 911, even post-1975 models with the galvanised shell
  • Check every inch, preferably with the car on a ramp if you can; failing that remove mats from the front luggage compartment and inspect the condition of the floor, front crossmember, battery tray and then work your way back looking carefully at sills, inner wings, roof pillars, sunroof drains (where fitted), under the carpets and back into the rear arches
  • The so-called ‘kidney bowl’ reinforcements at the rear edge of the sills and within the B-pillars are notorious rust spot that require serious surgery to sort properly – beware any sign of bodged repairs in this area
  • Most cars will have had work done at some stage in their lives; in previous years when they weren’t as valuable this may have been more of the ‘quick fix’ variety so beware patchwork quilt repairs and instead hold out for one where you have evidence of a proper restoration by a respected specialist

How does it drive?

The word ‘unique’ is much over-used but, truly, nothing else drives like a 911 and a well-sorted impact bumper Carrera offers a fantastic balance of usable performance to be enjoyed as much on a long cruise as on a twisty back road or mountain pass. The small on-road footprint, the upright windscreen and excellent all-round visibility make it easy to place and very exploitable, there being surprising muscularity to the controls for what is a relatively light car.

Quirks like the offset driving position, floor-hinged pedals and wide-hipped stance soon become charming rather than strange, while the breathy bark of that air-cooled flat-six is a fundamental part of the magic. In standard form you’re looking at around 200PS (147kW) depending on the model and which engine it has, which sounds modest but translates to perfectly usable and enjoyable performance on the road thanks to the broad power band.

The much-hyped tail-heavy handling is less of an issue in these cars, especially when you get into the slow-in, fast-out groove the car naturally encourages through its very obvious feedback at the wheel. A good one is, quite simply, a joy to drive.

 What’s good?

Half a century on, the shock of the impact bumper look has subsided and appreciation of how neatly Porsche integrated this legislative requirement into the 911 shape has grown. The interchangeability of Porsche parts is, meanwhile, a blessing and a curse, meaning many G-Series cars have been ‘backdated’ to look like older ones, hot-rodded or otherwise modified.

This is all part of the scene but an original, wingless SC or 3.2 Carrera on Fuchs wheels has an elegant, late ‘70s simplicity about it many now covet. And with usable rear seats for the kids, good long-distance refinement and that iconic shape an impact bumper 911 makes for a very usable classic, more than capable of regular driving on modern roads.

There’s obviously a huge scene supporting these cars, and many talented and skilled specialists around to restore them and keep them running properly. Once you’ve had your fun a good one will always be in demand and easy to sell on to the next enthusiast seeking to live the air-cooled 911 dream, too.

What’s bad?

Given the impact bumper cars were, for a long time, considered the cheap route into classic 911 ownership and have now been on the road many decades many will have suffered from ‘make do and mend’ upkeep the inherent strength and build quality of the base car will have permitted. But these are still high-performance, precision instruments and any shortcuts by previous owners can bite you expensively on the backside if you’re suckered into a car that flatters to deceive.

Engines are inherently strong but big jobs and rebuilds quickly escalate in cost and complexity if you’re unlucky. But that’s nothing against the cost of sorting out a rusty car, of which there are sadly many lurking ready to tempt the unwary. Nothing comes cheaply with a 911 and a bad car could quickly land you multiple five-figure bills if you’re doing a proper job of it. Choose carefully, seek expert advice where possible and scrutinise every last bit of the history for a sense of what you’re getting into.

Which model to choose?

For years a forgotten model word is now out about the early mechanical fuel injection 2.7 Carreras, which basically ran the engine from the legendary 2.7 RS. These are now sought-after and valuable, the 3.0-litre ‘Carrera 3’ that replaced it in 1975 also highly regarded. The range was updated with a new 3.0-litre engine for the SC in 1978, emissions regs meaning it was actually down on power, though this was steadily addressed and balance restored by the early 1980s.

The big change came in 1984 with the introduction of the bigger, torquier 3.2-litre engine and, in 1987, the sturdier ‘G50’ gearbox. If you want a more modern feeling car these late versions have obvious appeal, though appreciation of the SC’s lighter, revvier nature has grown among purists and, if it was our money, an early ‘80s one with the 204PS (150kW) 3.0-litre engine, no wing and on Fuchs wheels would be top of the wishlist.

Targas and convertibles remain popular but, while they can be a bit more affordable to buy, they’ll be no cheaper to restore or run so the coupe remains the more desirable bodystyle.

Specifications – 1981 Porsche 911 SC 3.0

Engine

3.0-litre six-cylinder, petrol

Power

204PS (150kW) @ 5,900rpm

Torque

267Nm (197lb ft) @ 4,300rpm

Transmission

Five-speed manual, rear-wheel drive

Kerb weight

1,160kg

0-62mph

6.8 seconds

Top speed

146mph

Production dates

1978-1984 (entire G-Series production 1974-1989)

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Mazda MX-5 (NB)

BUYER’S GUIDE

Mazda MX-5 (NB) Review

As first-generation MX-5s get collectable and more expensive attention is turning to its successor as a source of cheap thrills…

What Is It?

After nine years on sale, the first-generation – or NA – MX-5 was in need of an update to stay relevant, its NB successor building on the same foundations with a modernised and more substantial feel. Out went the iconic pop-up lights, Mazda compensating for the less distinctive look with a stiffer shell for sharper handling, more luxurious interior for improved refinement and – on later versions – more powerful engines and a six-speed gearbox.

While it’s true the real MX-5 enthusiasts still covet the NA for its cuter looks and originality, the NB is just as fun to drive, considerably more civilised to live with and much more plentiful and affordable to buy.  

Corrosive Areas

Front chassis legs

Sills

Rear arches

Checklist

  • With the same basic engine, transmission, suspension and brakes the NB MX-5 shares the original’s reputation for mechanical simplicity, toughness and ease of maintenance, making it an attractive choice for the DIY enthusiast
  • The 1.6 and 1.8 engines are fundamentally the same as the previous version, though breathing was improved with a new 4-2-1 exhaust manifold and, on the 1.8, a variable-length intake system known as VICS
  • As with the Mk1 make sure you check the obvious things, like levels for coolant and oil, signs of emulsification in the latter on the inside of the oil filler cap and obvious leaks; cambelts need replacing every five years so factor this into your first service if there’s no evidence of it being done recently
  • The NB was significantly updated in 2001 with an obvious facelift – look for the triple-lens headlights, bigger air intake and foglights (or blanks) on the outer edges of the front bumper as the obvious signifiers; you may hear these cars referred to in some circles as NB2 or Mk2.5 cars
  • The post-2001 1.8 gained variable intake valve timing branded as S-VT and increasing power from 140PS (103kW) to 146PS (107kW), torque climbing from 162Nm (119lb ft) to 168Nm (124lb ft); while the six-speed gearbox only fractionally improved acceleration and top speed figures it means improved flexibility and high-speed refinement
  • Rust is the biggest killer of NB MX-5s, so should be top of your list of things to look out for; sills and rear wheelarches are common spots and many cars will have had some manner of repair or patching done here so check for the quality of the work and have a proper poke around, especially where the sills join the rear arches
  • Visible rust is one thing and an indicator of what may lurk deeper within, so, if possible, get the car on a ramp and remove the undertray for a good sense of whether the front chassis legs are sound or not – these are double skinned and can rust from the inside out so check thoroughly as rot can often be terminal
  • While it’s up on the ramp check the condition of the floorpan and sills; the powerframe linking the gearbox and differential, the subframes and the suspension arms will likely have surface rust on them but look carefully at inner wings, suspension mounts and for any damage to the chassis rails from speed bumps or poor jacking
  • Feel around the interior for wet carpets or other signs of a leaking roof or blocked drain holes

How does it drive?

One of the original MX-5’s literal weaknesses was its rather flexy body, the scuttle shake over bumpy surfaces detracting from its otherwise perfect handling. For the NB Mazda stuck with the same overall powertrain and structure (the dimensions are pretty much identical) but stiffened things up with some carefully targeted reinforcement in areas like the A-pillars, transmission tunnel, floorpan and sills.

It’s a little heavier like-for-like as a result, but only to the tune of 50kg or so. As such it maintains that delicate balance and sense of agility, but feels more substantial without the wobbles and rattles you sometimes get in the NA.

Post-2001 1.8s with the updated engine, variable valve timing and six-speed gearbox therefore feel a significant step on in capability, without corrupting the MX-5 character we all love. Bilstein dampers and a limited-slip diff on Sport models were another welcome addition for UK buyers.

 What’s good?

While the interior is actually fundamentally similar the NB is testament to what a difference a few squishy bits of interior trim and fancier switchgear can make to the overall ambience of a car. Little things like the glass rear screen on the hood (Mazda being Mazda the engineers achieved this AND a weight-saving over the previous arrangement) help with daily refinement and, as the car evolved, specifications got steadily more luxurious. Moving the spare wheel and battery from inside the boot to under it also helps practicality, and the sense of it being a more grown-up, higher-quality vehicle.

The revviness of that later 1.8 combined with the six-speed gearbox and limited-slip diff also make the NB feel a much more modern, grown-up proposition without messing with the MX-5’s natural playfulness.

For buyers the fact they’re younger and, perhaps, a tad less desirable than the NA means these second-generation cars are much more affordable to buy as well.

What’s bad?

Unfortunately not all of Mazda’s upgrades to the body were as welcome as others, the double-skinned front chassis legs turning out to become a notorious rust trap where terminal corrosion can take hold and wreak unseen havoc on an otherwise solid looking car.

This, and the existing problem areas like the sills and rear arches, mean many otherwise appealing NBs have been lost because the values are such it doesn’t make economic sense to repair them properly. And a lot of that is down to the fact that, best will in the world and for all the objective improvements, the NB will always live in the shadow of its cuter predecessor.

Which model to choose?

Given the earlier NBs are closer in spirit to the previous-generation MX-5 but lack some of the charm it can feel harder to make a case for them. In terms of engine while the 1.6 was more appealing in the previous car the small weight increase means the 1.8 is probably the more desirable option here. The more so when combined with the Bilstein dampers, limited-slip diff and six-speed gearbox combination seen in some limited editions like the Icon and 10th Anniversary, and then the post-2001 Sport model.

You can see where this is going and, for the clear ground it puts between itself and the first-gen MX-5, we’d probably hold out for a later 1.8i Sport with the variable valve timing if possible, though there are bargains to be had and if a genuinely rust-free example of a five-speed car or earlier version came into view we’d be seriously tempted. 

Specifications – Mazda MX-5 1.8i Sport (2001-2005)

Engine

1.8-litre four-cylinder petrol

Power

146PS (107kW) @ 7,000rpm

Torque

168Nm (124lb ft) @ 5,000rpm

Transmission

Six-speed manual, rear-wheel drive

Kerb weight

1,100kg

0-62mph

8.4 seconds

Top speed

129mph

Production dates

1998-2005 (total production)

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