The Italian Touch

03rd February 2018

Small, family-owned businesses that use traditional tools and techniques are behind some of Italy’s finest accessories. Words by Catherine Peel

  • Fashion

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Image by Arthur Woodcroft

As far back as the 11th century Italy was a producer and exporter of high-end luxury goods. A variety of international trade routes meant that the country came into contact with a wide-ranging series of influences, stretching as far as the Orient. Over time, Italian style has come to be known as for its quality and craftmanship, as well as its dedication to achieving ‘sprezzatura’ (an unaffected nonchalance and effortless style). As tailor Hardy Amies put it, “A man should look as if he’s bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them”. 

A man should look as if he’s bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them.

Hardy Amies

When it comes to accessories in particular, the Italians are world-renowned (Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana to name a few, as well as menswear tailors such as Zegna and Canali). But it’s not just the renowned brands that offer the Italian touch. Small, family-owned businesses have always offered an alternative for those who appreciate high quality and hand craftsmanship. One such company is Maglia, whose origins date back to 1850, and who are recognised as one of the finest makers of umbrellas in the world. 

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Francesco Maglia is the fifth-generation descendent of another Francesco Maglia (traditionally one of the sons is always called Francesco) who founded the company in 1854. Each umbrella is handmade in the Maglia workshop using an 80-step traditional process and produced from a single shaft of wood – usually chestnut, ash, walnut or cherry. A variety of handles in natural wood or leather as well as bespoke designs are available. Francesco is passionate about his business to the extent that he collects umbrella-related prints, postcards and gadgets. His collection, which has been meticulously built up over the years, includes over three thousand pieces and has even been exhibited.

Did you know?

The basic umbrella was invented more than 4,000 years ago and was originally designed to provide shade from the sun. It is believed the Chinese were the first to waterproof their umbrellas - they waxed and lacquered their paper parasols in order to use them for protection against the rain.

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The word "umbrella" comes from the Latin root word "umbra," meaning shade or shadow. Starting in the 16th century the umbrella became popular in the western world, especially in the rainy climates of northern Europe. At first, it was considered only an accessory suitable for women. Then the Persian traveller and writer Jonas Hanway (1712-86) carried and used an umbrella publicly in England for 30 years. English gentleman would often refer to their umbrella as a "Hanway."

If I was a woman, I would be dressed in the same thing for a month and just change my hat and gloves.

Manolo Blahnik

For four generations the Merola family has produced leather gloves, a ‘Made in Italy’ product, (a merchandise mark indicating that a product is all planned, manufactured and packed in Italy). Their gloves are all handmade using traditional techniques. Owner John Mero can date the history of glove-making within his family back to 1920, when the brand Meron thrived until the Second World War brought many challenges. However, the company managed to evolve into the brand it is today, and still makes the finest quality gloves produced using the same tools and techniques. He says, “Today the gloves, like the tie, are no longer an indispensable element of dress, but have remained for many of us a part of Western culture and will remain alive for a long time”

Merola gloves are worn by Kate Winslet in Titanic, Matt Damon in the Talented Mr Ripley, and by Mel Gibson in The Patriot

  • Fashion